Nonouti Island Travel Blog

Community-Based Tourism
A Sustainable Tourism Initiative

Nonouti Island Community - Based Tourism Tour

Over the last 12 months, our Tourism Officer – Product Development, Nei Kiarake Karuaki has made numerous trips to the Southern Gilbert group island of Nonouti to introduce the concept of Sustainable Community-Based Tourism (CBT) to communities and local organisations on the island. These trips included scoping for potential CBT sites, soliciting community interest to participate in the initiative and the provision of tourism support and training for these remote island communities.

Supported by the LDCF -1 Food Security Project funded by the Global Environment Facility (GEF) through the UNDP and managed by the Environment and Conservation Division (ECD) under the MELAD, this CBT initiative attracted the interest of 3 communities, local fishing guides and supported by the Nonouti Island Council.

After arriving into Tarawa on a Fiji Airways flight from Nadi, Fiji, I joined a delegation of senior government officials on a familiarisation trip to the island to experience what has culminated from months of work with selected Nonouti island communities.

Pre-departure from Bonriki International Airport with Air Kiribati

Air Kiribati - connecting the outer islands of Kiribati

Through the project, we charted an Air Kiribati flight to Nonouti. As would be expected, check-in was quite exclusive to our small contingent of adventure seekers, all keen to experience Nonouti as a traveller.

50 minutes after take-off from Bonriki International Airport, as we descended onto Nonouti, I could not help but marvel at the tranquil sight of the island’s turquoise lagoon and islets that appeared as beads on the Northern end of the atoll.

Arriving to a traditional Kiribati welcome in the newly constructed maneaba next to the Nonouti airport terminal made for a special experience. The dance and ‘light’ (but abit on the sumptuous heavy side) refreshment reassured me that my plans for a more controlled diet in 2023 will now be out the window, at least during my 4 days in Nonouti.

Arrival at Nonouti Island

From the airport, it was a 30-minutes open truck (with canopy and mats) ride to our accommodation.

Nonouti Island Transport

Where is Nonouti?

Nonouti island is the third-largest in the Gilbert Group and it is the fifth-largest in the country. It is home to nine villages. The village of Matang serves as the government center for the atoll and houses the local island council, the police station and a hospital.

The island is where the Roman Catholic Church was first established in Kiribati in 1888 and a monument commemorating this historical part of the country’s history can be found Taribo at Taboiaki Village.

Grave of Missionaries that served on Nonouti Island

Nonouti Island is also home to the largest and oldest Maneaba in all of Kiribati.  Called “te Aake” (the ark), it was built as a symbol of the first arrival of Christianity to Kiribati through Roman Catholic church.

Te Ake – Kiribati’s largest maneaba

Nonouti Island Council Guesthouse

This is the only accommodation currently available on the island and is managed by the Nonouti Island Council. Nei Bwaranika, the guesthouse manager and her colleagues welcomed us and conducted a very thorough briefing on the property. “This guesthouse is powered by solar energy, but we will not hesitate to penalise you if you forget to turn the fan off when you leave room” she said. As a former hotelier myself, I knew this young lady meant business and that she will not disappoint in delivering acceptable service. And I was not wrong at all.

The guesthouse is well kept and clean. The main accommodation building boasts two wings with the dining and common room at the centre. Each wing features a 1 double room and 2 single rooms, each with a shared bathroom and toilet. In my room, I was quite pleased to see that I had my own wardrobe with large mirrors on either sides and enough storage space for all my clothes.

Bath towels are not provided however bathroom amenities are. It is recommended to bring your own soap and amenities if you are particular with the brands you use.

Within the compound of the guesthouse are 7 traditional buia’s with local beds (and a comfortable mattress). Mosquito nets can be provided upon request. An electric fan is provided in all rooms though the ocean side facing rooms enjoy a cool breeze, particularly at night.

After an official welcome and buffet dinner hosted by the Nonouti Island Council, we retired for the evening with much anticipation of our activities the following day.   

Nei Bwaranika
Nonouti Island Council Guesthouse sign at the entrance to the place

Flyfishing Tour

My alarm went off at 5am and after quick shower and organising my kit for the day, I joined the rest of the group in our open truck and we made our way to board our boat, some 35 minutes aways.

As part of the tour, the guesthouse prepared a breakfast and lunch pack with fruits and bottled water for group. We had our breakfast before we boarded 3 separate boats.

Taam, our local fishing guide came highly recommended as the best on the island. Once onboard our allocated boats, we followed Taam’s dingy across the turquoise lagoon to the fishing flats.

First stop was Noumwatong, the western most islet in Nonouti. Approaching the islet was surreal. Its brilliant white sandy beach and extended sandbanks make for a perfect Luxury magazine shot.

On the island, Taam our guide took us through the basic fly-fishing techniques. I realised then that fly fishing experts make this process look so simple and I was not going to master the art anytime soon. None the less, we moved on to our first fishing site on the beach.

Later we moved on to the fishing flats as the tide went out and then concluded our tour on the sand banks.

Bonefish were clearly abundant, even close up to the beach but my amateur skills got the better of me. In any case it would be inconsiderate of me to out fish our guide so we allowed him do all the catching, while we did the honourable work of releasing each catch.

We completed our fishing expedition just as the tide was coming in and we made our way to our next stop.

Fishing guide Taam taking us through the basics of fly fishing

MPA and Reef to Fork Tour – Autukia Community

The huge appetite we had built from the morning out at sea made the MPA tour a welcome relief as we had received hints that a unique sumptuous local dish awaited us.

Autukia community is well known throughout Nonouti for their ibunroro – a local delicacy made from fresh sea shell meat cooked in an intricately carved out young coconut shell over an open fire. The result is a creamy blend of ocean goodness and coconut milk freshness with a distinct burnt aroma that is pleasing to the tastebud. Yummy does little to best describe this dish.

Just when we were done, came crab meat freshly cooked in coconut milk and presented in the crab shell. It was from this moment that I realised that Nonouti will be my second Kiribati home – their food got me.

Island Feast

By the way, the stop at Autukia village included an MPA and clam farm tour and Te ibunroro cooking demonstration.

We concluded this tour just as the picturesque sunset was retiring over the horizon, the perfect que to also retire to a well-deserved rest from our adventurous day.

After the sumptuous feast with the Autika village community

Abamwakoro Islet Tour

We were awoken at 5.30am the next morning by our ever so diligent host Nei Bwaranika to prepare for a 6am departure for our last organised tour of Nonouti’ s Northern Islet, Abamwakoro.

With breakfast packed, and in true Kiribati time fashion, we departed the guesthouse late at 6.30am for a 1-hour drive to our drop off point. It was ‘breakfast on the go’ so the onboard dining experience coupled to TAK Chairman Tabotabo Auatabu’ s tales made the drive seem shorter than it really was.

Once at the drop site, we divided ourselves amongst the 3 fibreglass boats that awaited us and slowly made our way out to the direction on Abamwakoro village, the northern most inhabited islet in Nonouti.

Beaches on the lagoon side across all atolls in Kiribati dry up at low tide and Abamwakoro was no exception. And because of our late departure from the guesthouse, we were all treated to an early morning powerwalk from where the tide had receded to, to the beach. This was a good 20 minutes’ walk and I had no time to complain as the sight of a traditional Kiribati village, literally stuck in time, presenting itself over the horizon built my excitement for the experience that awaited us. And time travel it surely was.

On arrival, we were welcomed by the village choir singing a familiar Kiribati tune, which against the village backdrop made the experience genuine and authentic.

Abamwakoro islet choir

We were ushered to a buia where we were served refreshing moimoto (fresh coconut juice) and a light morning tea of crabs, sundried sand worms (te Ibo) and fish with boiled breadfruit.

Following this we were invited to join the village in a Sunday service led by the local Roman Catholic Catechist.

Service led by Catechist

From the Sunday service, a local elder led us on tour of the village, their local school called Teitikinikarawa Primary School and walk through the Northern end of the village to the passage which also serves as a swimming spot for the villagers.

The classrooms, built entirely from coconut leaf stem and pandanus posts and leaves with crushed coral floor was a picture-perfect resemblance of a setting from the early 1900’s. It was quite humbling to recognise that the children of Abamwakoro received their education in such a special setting.

Upon our return to the village, we were invited back into the maneaba where a lunch feast of local delicacies awaited us. This however did not begin without the formal welcome by village elders and an opportunity to engage with them in a maroro, which typically included formal introductions and a storytelling session.

Soon it was time to leave and so we all retuned to our respective boats which were now anchored right on the beachfront, thanks to the returning tide.

Abamwakoro Islet

Noumwatong Bird Sanctuary Tour

From Abamwakoro, it was a short 1-hour boat ride across to the Noumwatong bird sanctuary. 

The white sandy beaches of Noumwatong made arrival onto the island surreal. It is a scenic gem of unsurpassed beauty home only to one of the largest collection of harbor black and white noddies, terns and frigate birds.

Our young tour guide mentioned that this was the bird nesting season and so we were very careful not to disturb or step on their eggs.

One can expect bird dropping on them during this tour and count that as a blessing and indeed I was blessed, more than once. That of course is all part of the experience.

With group photo to celebrate the completion of our last activity on our itinerary, we were back on our boats and made out way back to our accommodation.

Noumwatong Birdlife Sanctuary

Return is a must

This was my first visit to Nonouti but this will certainly not be my last. I have enjoyed every bit of this off the beaten track experience and yearn to one day return and savour every moment again of the Nonouti Island hospitality.

TAK Board Chairman sharing a story as we were about to indulge in another island feast.

About the Traveller

Petero Manufolau is the Chief Executive Officer of the Tourism Authority of Kiribati. Through his work, Petero has been blessed with the wonderful opportunity to experience Kiribati hospitality throughout her islands. These include Butaritari, Abaiang, North Tarawa, Banaba, Abemama, Kiritimati and now Nonouti.

Fishing – a Kiribati way of Living

Fishing - a Kiribati way of Living

Fishing and its associated activities form an intimate part of the Kiribati way of life. From the preparatory work and fishing procedures to the final act of consumption, the whole process involves certain norms of behaviour and belief which have been traditionally handed down in each generation.

Fishing is the mainstay of the Kiribati life and therefore traditional fishing methods are closely guarded as being essential to the survival of the Kiribati culture.

Fishing – an uncommon sight in Kiribati

The sight of men, women, and children in the lagoon or on their canoes fishing is an uncommon sight throughout Kiribati. Whether it is women and children collecting seashells during low tide in the lagoon flats, or men with their nets or fishing rods, the art of fishing represents who we are as people of the seas.

Te Riena – the scoop net fishing experience

In the village of Buariki on the Northern end of North Tarawa, we meet Mr. Tiraoi and Ms. Roti as they diligently prepare the tools required for a fishing method practices only by their people – Te Riena or Scoop Net Fishing.

The scoop Net ‘Te Riena’ as it is called locally has 3 parts – the scoop net, straight rod (about arm’s length) and a rounded stick that holds the scoop net and rod together.  The scoop net is traditionally made from local fine string that is woven like a gill net but with smaller holes.  Nowadays the scoop net is made from monofilament nylon cord because of its strength.

To watch the wart of scoop net weaving is to witness a skill that has been passed down through generations. The maker, regardless of whether the scoop net is for him or a family member, does so with intricate care, patience, and skill.

The scoop net is weaved by men using fishing line which is suitable for fishing while the basket is weaved by women. 

The basket is made from the coconut tree leaves or dry pandanus leaves depending on which is available. 

Mr. Tiraoi preparing the scoop net
Ms. Roti weaving the basket for the catch

Te Riena – An Art

For the people of North Tarawa, the art of Te Riena fishing is art and skill that a male should learn and master.  The art of te rinea is found in the techniques that is applied when catching a fish with a scoop net which is very swift and very intriguing to watch and makes you want to learn.  

To learn te riena; a father or grandfather would often take his sons and young male relatives on a night fishing trip during the low tides of the new moon season.  For an observer and first timer you will be often be intrigued by the way they wield and twirl their scoop nets as they scoop each catch to their baskets.  It is the thrill of the scoop net and the participation of the many scoop netters who join makes an enjoyable activity to experience.

A man embarks on his scoop net fishing experience

The Perfect time to experience Te Riena

The best time to experience Te Riena is during the new moon around 2 days before and 2 days after the new moon.   

The real adventure starts when men assemble, each equipped with their own scoop net, basket hung from their head or around their shoulders, and light and in an orderly manner, they make their way to the designated scoop net fishing area. 

Men scooping their catch in Buariki, North Tarawa.

Fish is best enjoyed together

Traditionally, IKiribati regarded fishing as meeting the basic need for daily food. As the old saying goes, “You can live only if you go out and catch your food” However, there is also a connotation of enjoyment, for traditional fishing which inevitably involves the community in a social way – such is the nature of scoop net fishing.

As a communal activity, it is only natural therefore that the catch from scoop net fishing is enjoyed as a family and community.

Fish as it is best enjoyed after a night of scoop net fishing

Comment

Te Wa – Kiribati’s link to its most Valued Resource, the Ocean

TE WA – Kiribati’s link to its most Valued Resource, the Ocean

Photo by Emile Schutz: Canoe Sailing in Abaiang Atoll
Photo by Raimon Kataotao: Canoe Sailing in Tarawa

When arriving in Kiribati by air, one will be captivated by the sight of idyllic atoll islands that float gracefully over the vast Pacific Ocean.  As the flight continues to descend, a few more islands will appear over the shimmering blue waters, each garlanded by a perpetual stretch of brilliant white sandy beach and picturesque turquoise lagoon. These islands are small in nature, so one can easily make out the distance between one island and another as the flight continues its downward journey into Bonriki International airport on the atoll island of Tarawa.

Experiential travellers and adventure seekers will appreciate from such a fascinating arrival experience that the life of an Ikiribati is centred around the ocean. With such an appreciation, one cannot help but wonder how the people of these isolated group of islands have remained connected as a people and how their link to their most valued resource, the ocean has remained strong for generations.

Photo by George Seinmetz: Canoe Sailing in Tabiteuea Atoll

Te Wa

For thousands of years, Pacific people have journeyed across the vast ocean, earning them the titles of master navigators, discoverers, and fishermen.

In Kiribati, the canoe, or Te Wa as it is known, has been their link to the ocean and has also connected them as a people of the seas.

 Te Wa is more than just a canoe —it is a significant piece of architecture with a remarkable history.

With 33 individual islands making up the nation of Kiribati, Te Wa is a necessary apparatus to fish, travel, communicate and share supplies between each island.

Living remotely on coral atolls in the Pacific makes travelling between neighbouring islands necessary as it has been for thousands of years. However, with only natural materials found on the islands, Te Wa was always going to be a resourceful and imaginative vessel, engineered to travel with speed and grace.

Traditional Craftsmanship

Photo by Tony Whincup: Traditional canoe measuring
Photo by Tony Whincup: Canoe builder

To watch a canoe craftsman at work is to witness a skill that has been passed down through generations. The maker, regardless of whether the vessel be for himself or for a client—forms a personal relationship with Te Wa. Each canoe is marked out and measured using his own hand span of the maker and without a screw or nail holding it into place. It is an intimate process that requires time and patience.

Days before the spirit level, the maker would position his workplace on land and face out to sea. The straight line in the horizon where the ocean meets the sky is his level. So even before the canoe is introduced into the saltwater, its destiny to sail towards the horizon is already decided.

The string that holds Te Wa together

Kiribati has maintained a traditional family structure where men take on the role as the head of the family and women become the carer and home maker. Because of these hunter/gatherer roles, the canoe is seen as male domain.

Still to this day, it is expected that the male will provide for his family and therefore the family’s relationship with the canoe is held to the highest esteem.

Traditionally women were not allowed to take part in the construction of the canoe nor were they allowed to take it to sea by themselves. However, women hold a significant role in the creation of Te Wa, which cannot be understated—they provide the string that holds Te Wa together.

Te Wa is bound by string made from dried coconut husks. Women, usually sitting in a circle, would tightly roll fibres of coconut husks along their thighs to form perfectly bound rope. Although this may seem like a menial task, it can take years to perfect the process of drying the husk, separating it and then coiling the husk to create an almost unbreakable thin twine. This rope holds riggers against raging tides and also holds fast when the salt water threatens to destroy even the toughest steel.

While men discover islands and fish for their family’s dinner, the women’s rope provides the strength that holds the man’s canoe together. Each role is equally reliant on the other.

Photo by Tony Whincup: Woman making string used to bind Te Wa

What’s in a Name….

The final part of the building process is the naming of Te Wa.

The name of a Te Wa predicts the luck and character of the boat. A man will often stroll the shores, looking out to sea and abstain from eating until the name is decided. It is a serious decision and once made, the canoe is ready for its maiden journey to sea.

With thousands of years venturing throughout the Pacific, Te Wa symbolises everything the people of Kiribati have achieved.

Neighbouring island nations each have their own canoe, which has allowed them to follow tidal passages, and voyage and explore the largest ocean in the world.

Te Wa is part of who the Kiribati people are—it is their culture, their respect for the ocean and their family members all encompassed into one structure.

Photo by Raimon Kataotao: Getting ready to sail

Te Wa for different purposes

Te Baurua

The “Baurua,” is the king of the outrigger canoes built up to 100 ft. long, with 2 to 3 sails.  It was used for distant voyaging and war during the old days.  A fine specimen of the “Baurua,” probably the last of it’s kind to exist today called the ‘Taratai,’ now sits at the National Maritime Museum in Auckland NZ.  

The ‘Taratai Baurua,’ 76ft long was built in the 1970s at the Taratai Village in North Tarawa built for James Siers who wanted to test that the Ikiribati islanders were capable of making great ocean voyages by canoe.    The 76ft, double-ended outrigger was built without nails or screws, instead was lashed together with sennit (string made from coconut fibre) which made a 482 kilometre (300 miles) trip from Tarawa to Fiji.  Oral history since the 1200s praised IKiribati as great navigators having to sail the Baurua between Futuna, Fiji, Tuvalu, Tonga Samoa and Kiribati which is 2,300 kilometres across the Pacific Ocean.

Photo by FB Kiribati History Art & Culture: Te Taratai Baurua in NZ Museum

Te Baurua now kept at the NZ Maritime Museum, Auckland New Zealand

The Racing Canoe Te Wa N Kauwaia

The Kiribati racing canoe is a wonderfully elegant piece of engineering, achieving a fine balance between wind, ropes, and sail. Reputed to be the fastest canoe in the Pacific, they are testimony to the ingenuity of the people of these sparsely resourced atolls. It may be through the revival of racing as a sport, that the future of the traditional Kiribati sailing canoe will be sustained.

Photo by Raimon Kataotao: Canoe racing South Tarawa

The Fishing Canoe Te Wa N Akawa

The Fishing Canoe is usually smaller than the racing canoe.  The fishing canoe is very important because we depend a lot on the sea for our primary source of protein, fish. If you have no canoe you feel incapacitated because you can’t go to the sea, you can’t get fish.

Photo by Henry Genthe: Canoe Fishing
Photo by George Seinmetz: Collecting clams

The canoes of Kiribati have been the inspiration for many canoe building projects. No high tech or expensive materials are required. If you have sailed more conventional boats before, you’ll have to unlearn many of the instincts that you’ve developed. There definitely isn’t a more enjoyable way to explore a tropical lagoon than on Te Wa.

------------------------------
Photos by Jonny Lewis: Canoe sailing in Butaritari
------------------------------

REFERENCES & ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS

This was prepared by Mr. George Kum Kee, Tourism Officer, Tourism Authority of Kiribati. 

With referenced to Te Wa Traditional Canoes of Kiribati Photographic Essay by Tony Whincup and Te Wa, Kiribati’s Way to the Water by Lindsay Essay

Comment